A Walk Down Memory Lane, in the Wilds of Lake Nakuru National Park
- Amy
- 10 hours ago
- 5 min read
It’s hard to put that feeling into words, but try to picture it with me. The wind on my face, endless green all around, cicadas filling the silence, and a bird’s call that echoed through the silent forest. It pulled me straight back to Coorg and Shettigeri, and to Papa, clicking away endlessly on his old Samsung phone. Mum would have squealed in excitement, and just that thought made me want to plan a game drive with her someday. The whole experience felt surreal, the kind of moment only Nakuru’s lake and grasslands could offer, and maybe that’s why I was meant to find my way to this paradise called Kenya! I could have done this all day, without caring about tangled hair, dust on my skin, or the jeep’s jolts digging into my back.
We had set out for an afternoon drive in Lake Nakuru National Park.
My mother-in-law suddenly asked, “Would tourists skip this and only do Masai Mara if given the chance?” It made me think. Maybe some would, either because time is short or because Nakuru doesn’t get the same spotlight in brochures as Mara. I’m not surprised that many people don’t know where Nakuru is, even I didn’t until recently. What did surprise me, though, was how many people don’t actually know where the Maasai Mara is. But I can tell you one reason Nakuru is worth it - the lake. For context, Lake Nakuru sits in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, about 164 kilometers northwest of Nairobi, and is part of the famous Lake Nakuru National Park. Unlike Mara’s endless savannahs, Nakuru brings together water, wetlands, grasslands, and rocky escarpments. Its alkaline waters attract thousands of greater and lesser flamingos and pelicans, and with over 450 recorded bird species, it becomes one of the most spectacular bird sanctuaries in the world. It is also one of Kenya’s most important rhino sanctuaries, home to both black and white rhinos (although we spotted only one male rhino, that too with our binoculars). This mix of habitats makes Nakuru unique, with a richness of life you won’t find in Mara.
At exactly 4 pm, Alex was waiting at our lodge gate, everything ready, six water bottles each, safari hats, and the jeep hood up. All we had to do was be on time. We climbed up onto the seats (shoes off, of course, the Indian in us just couldn’t stamp on them) to feel what it was like to see the world from above. Alex drove carefully, slowing whenever there was something to spot. Impalas stared straight at us, their slender frames stiff in anticipation. A herd of Cape buffalo grazed lazily, unbothered, while zebras nearby munched away without a care. A lilac-breasted roller, Kenya’s national bird, flashed its brilliant colors as it darted past. Black-faced monkeys, called the Vervet monkeys, resembling the Hanuman langurs of India, sat close to the jeep, nibbling on leaves. On the roadside, a troop of baboons passed us by, mothers carrying babies on their backs, the little ones peeking out with curious eyes.
Soon the lake itself opened up before us, a breathtaking sweep of water alive with thousands of pelicans floating gracefully and flocks of delicate pink flamingos shimmering at the edge. It was a sight that made us stop and stare, already awestruck so early in the drive. Not long after, we spotted a rhino resting in the distance, its silhouette visible only with binoculars. It struck me that we were in one of the last strongholds where these endangered giants are fiercely protected. Along the way, zebras lined the roadside, calm and curious as jeeps passed.
And then, at a distance, the elegant shapes of Rothschild’s giraffes appeared, their white stockings unmistakable. Just yesterday, we had been face to face with them at the Giraffe Center in Nairobi, and that very morning we’d walked alongside Masai giraffes on Crescent Island. To see our long-necked friends again, this time in the wild and truly in their own element, felt like a reunion, familiar yet entirely new.
From there, the track led us past the airstrip, the mobile toilets, and the rangers’ quarters, before the plains opened wider, dotted with yellow acacia trees. Thanks to the lake and seasonal rains, the park here is always green, never dry. The mud tracks grew rougher as the evening sun filtered through the clouds, scattering golden light across the grasslands.
Deeper into the rugged paths, we kept hoping for lions. After about forty minutes of patient driving, Alex slowed as we neared a cluster of jeeps standing utterly still. Everyone inside seemed locked onto something. We crept closer, and there they were. A pride of lions. One male dozing, his brother prowling nearby with three females, their presence heavy and commanding. My very first lion in the wild. Even the kids were spellbound. Sidd had seen his first back in Gir, but this was different. The raw savannah, the African sun, the silence of every jeep in awe. Alex carefully edged forward and back, giving us the best possible view. For twenty minutes we sat there, hearts pounding, watching the kings and queens of Nakuru in their element.
And then, just like that, it was time to head back. Somehow, in every safari we’ve done, we’ve spotted the big cats close to closing time. Coincidence? Or maybe a rhythm only the wild knows. I’ll never know, and perhaps it’s best that way, mystery always keeps the magic alive.
As we drove back to our lodge, the sky turned a soft radiant pink, our dusty clothes almost the same shade as the jeep. Alex looked quietly satisfied, but the tired, glowing smiles on our faces said it all.
Kindness That Felt Like Home – Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge
Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, set along Lion Hill inside Lake Nakuru National Park, was a welcome sight after our game drive. Being within the park meant we didn’t have to travel far, and its chalet-style charm made it easy to see why it’s one of the most sought-after lodges in Kenya. Our chalet sat high on the hill, reached by a winding stone path, and the terrace opened up to a beautiful view of Lake Nakuru. At the lodge, we were greeted with hot eucalyptus towels, lime water, and the warmth of a bonfire. A hot toddy in hand gave us the chance to pause, settle in, and let the memories of the drive sink in.
Kiu, however, was running a fever, likely from exhaustion. The staff immediately showed genuine concern and had him checked by the in-house clinician to rule out malaria, something every lodge in Kenya has given the risks. Their thoughtfulness felt reassuring, and I couldn’t help but wonder if kindness simply runs in the spirit of everyone at Sarova.
Dinner took us to the Flamingo restaurant, a lively yet cozy space where a live singer filled the room with music. The buffet was generous, offering Kenyan favorites, Italian and Indian dishes, along with plenty of desserts and juices. Chef John, who looked after the Indian counter, went above and beyond for us. He served a spread of dal (spiced lentils), naan (Indian flat bread), rice, and baingan curry (aubergine), with naans made fresh and brought hot to our table. When he asked about breakfast and we admitted we weren’t fans of upma, he immediately suggested aloo puri instead—ready before our early morning game drive. That thoughtful gesture, paired with a hearty dinner and a quiet walk around the peaceful lodge grounds, was the perfect close to our day.
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Beautifully captured ❤️