Historic Underground Christmas Markets… and Overground Commercialisation: Welcome to Valkenburg
- Amy
- 19 minutes ago
- 10 min read
We first visited Valkenburg back in December 2020. It was our very first European Christmas market, and the whole idea of wandering through ancient caves decorated for Christmas felt so extraordinary that I remember being completely swept away. Just to give you an introduction, Valkenburg is a town in the south of the Netherlands, about 20 minutes’ drive from Maastricht, near the Belgian and German borders. It’s famous for its ancient marlstone caves and is known for its magical underground Christmas markets, so much so that Valkenburg was awarded the title European City of Christmas in 2018. So what changed this time? Read on…
Valkenburg is about a 2.5-hour drive from The Hague. We left home around 11.30 am because our first cave entry was booked for 3.30 pm and the next one at 5.30 pm.
Now lets start with the BOOKINGS FOR CAVE ENTRY.
Back in 2020, the Fluweelengrot (Velvet Cave) Christmas market didn’t even take place. It was just the Municipal Cave (Gemeentegrot) running the show. Fast forward to now and Valkenburg has gone all out with not one, not two, but three “Christmas-caves”, the Municipal Cave, the Velvet Cave and the much newer MergelRijk. And honestly, MergelRijk feels more like a curated storytelling attraction than a proper Christmas market.
What used to be a cosy little local scene has turned into a full-blown international crowd. Tourists from everywhere pour in, so I completely get why timed entry has become non-negotiable. Without it, the caves would be chaos.
What really changed is the pricing. Earlier, you basically paid for one cave and that was it. Now each cave has its own ticket, €10 for adults and €7.50 for kids for the Municipal and Velvet Caves, and €19.50 for adults for MergelRijk. The part that really makes you raise an eyebrow is the separate charges. They could easily introduce a nominal combined pass for all three instead of making families sit and calculate which cave is “worth it.”
But here’s the catch: each cave is run by a different organisation. Different management, different vendors, different operating costs, different everything, so they don’t share budgets and they can’t pool ticket revenue. Plus, separate tickets make crowd control way easier, especially on busy weekends. So essentially, you’re dealing with three separate attractions that just happen to sit under the same Christmas banner.
Still, when you compare it to German Christmas markets that manage to stay magical without charging anyone a cent, the commercialisation here sticks out loudly. Since it didn’t break my bank, I booked two out of the three caves ahead of time to avoid being stuck outside during a busy weekend.
Note: If you’re going to pay, pick the Municipal Cave and the Velvet Cave. These two alone will give you a fulfilling experience. MergelRijk is great if you have extra time or you’re staying another day because after two caves, you’re pretty much “caved out.” And please book your cave timings if you’re visiting on a weekend, slots disappear fast and you might end up standing above ground with nothing left to explore. |
When we finally reached Valkenburg, the town was already glowing with all things festive. Cars were crawling into the narrow entrance lane leading to the Christmas town.
And here’s the next big point, BOOKINGS FOR CAR PARKING.
Their website lists a few parking options:
Parking Polfermolen – €6 – About 1.2 km from the Municipal Cave Christmas Market. We chose this one. A pleasant walk through the decorated streets and very easy on the pocket.
Parking Cauberg – €8 – Around 700 m away, closer to the action and the one near Holland Casino. This is where we parked and walked downhill into town. Just a heads-up: if you’re with kids, elderly parents, or anyone with mobility issues, it’s better to drop them off or pick them up from the town center. The slope from the parking back up can be steep, especially in the biting cold.
Parking Centrum – €12 – Roughly 400 m from the Municipal Cave. Most convenient for minimal walking.
Honestly, the parking in Valkenburg is impressively organised. Huge respect to the municipality, who plan and manage the parking lots during the Christmas season. On busy weekends, traffic marshals guide every lane, and the clearly marked “Kerststad Valkenburg” signs make it easy to find your way.
Note: If you don’t have a car or don’t want to drive down, here’s how to travel from The Hague to Valkenburg by public transport and how much it costs. You can take an intercity train from The Hague to Maastricht, and from there catch a regional train to Valkenburg. A one-way train ticket from The Hague to Valkenburg (2nd class) costs about €31.62. The short train leg from Heerlen to Valkenburg (if you transfer there) is about €4.02. Alternatively, from Maastricht to Valkenburg the train fare is roughly €3–€6, depending on the operator. |
Exploring Valkenburg Christmas Market
Valkenburg proudly calls itself the Christmas Town of the Netherlands, and rightly so. The marlstone caves in Valkenburg are super old, most were carved between the 12th and 17th centuries for mining. The Christmas market here is famous because it’s entirely underground. All the twinkling lights, festive stalls, murals on the cave walls, and cosy little cafés, all are carved into stone. This underground market is one-of-a-kind in the world!
So honestly, just for that alone, it’s worth visiting at least once. I’ve been to Christmas markets in Vienna, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Essen, Leiden, Amsterdam, The Hague, Riga, Bratislava, London, and Valkenburg still stands out. But of course, the magic comes with a price… keep reading and you’ll see exactly what I mean.
Municipal Cave (Gemeentegrot)
If you only have time for one cave, start here.
Europe’s largest underground Christmas market unfolds inside, with endless stalls selling ornaments, socks, chocolates, liqueur, winter clothes, home décor, paintings, and everything in between. The twinkling lights, decorated trees, nativity scenes, photo spots, all of it comes together beautifully. It’s buzzing and lively, exactly what you’d expect from a popular Christmas market. Expect to spend about 1.5 to 2 hours wandering through it.
I especially loved the murals. The cave walls hold some fascinating historic artwork, and there’s a small secret shrine tucked deep inside. It dates back to when the French ruled and church masses were banned, so people would gather here instead. On a normal day, I’d happily return to Valkenburg just for a cave walking tour without the crowds.
If you’re in Valkenburg on a regular day (outside the Christmas market), the Municipal Cave Guided Tour is absolutely worth it: it takes 30 minutes to an hour, costs €10 for adults and €7.50 for children. The tour is led by a guide (or by train, if you choose), and you’ll explore ancient marlstone, centuries-old drawings, sculptures, and hear stories about the stonemasons who carved these caves for nearly 2,000 years. Since the cave temperature is around 12 °C, it’s a good idea to bring a jacket.
BOOK HERE WITH MY LINK.
You might even get a surprise visit from Santa. The one we met was adorable and greeted us with a warm “Namaste,” immediately recognising we were from India. And for kids, there’s a fun scavenger hunt that keeps them completely engaged as they move through the cave.
The Santa Rock Café area is charming too, with tables arranged on the original cave platforms. This café accepts card payments (unlike the one in Velvet Cave). Our kids enjoyed this cave more because there was simply more to see. The paths are wide, stroller-friendly, wheelchair accessible, though dogs aren’t allowed.
Velvet Cave (Fluweelengrot)
This one sits right under the castle ruins and carries a different kind of charm. It’s more intimate, with narrow pathways, warm lighting, beautiful murals, little chapels and small festive stalls tucked along the walls. Google reviews will tell you it’s quieter, but honestly, it was way more crowded for us than the Municipal Cave. With its tight passages, a baby carrier is a smarter choice than a stroller. We saw parents struggling and truly felt for them.
Midway through the cave is a gorgeous café, the highlight of this cave. Cosy, beautifully lit, lots of seating. They serve hot chocolate, hot wine, drinks and small eats. But, they accept only cash. And after finally getting a table, we couldn’t buy anything because we were out of cash. Sad moment! Ironically, all the cave stalls do accept cards. Go figure.
And then came our highlight, stepping out of the Velvet Cave into the cold and grabbing our first mulled wine of the season. It was pure joy. Warm, spiced, perfect. It hit the soul. We also treated ourselves to waffles drenched in chocolate syrup and for those few minutes, calories and sugar highs simply didn’t matter. Bliss.
MergelRijk
More a visual story than a market. Expect sculptures, dioramas, and artistic displays narrating the Christmas story. If you’re going with kids, MergelRijk is totally worth it. There’s so much for them to explore, learn from, and get involved in. Hands-on activities let them make their own marl souvenirs, dig for fossils, and enjoy the “Sand Wizard” story. Tickets aren’t cheap, €19.50 for adults and €17.50 for kids, but with the audio tour, interactive activities, and magical dioramas, it’s a full-on immersive experience, not just a cave walk. If you want to save a bit, the combo ticket with the Velvet Cave is a smart move. Just remember that it’s not very stroller-friendly or wheelchair-friendly.
Our pick: If you want the classic underground market feel, start with the Municipal Cave. Add Velvet Cave if you want history and atmosphere. |
The Valkenburg Christmas Parade
One of the main attractions here is the Christmas Parade, held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The Saturday parade starts at 7.30 pm. We saw it in 2020 and absolutely loved it, pure magic, and completely unexpected back then. We’d sat on an outdoor terrace for dinner because we couldn’t get an indoor table and ended up with the perfect view of the parade rolling past us. The streets were alive with lights, floats, and performers in sparkling costumes, all spreading festive cheer. Marching bands, dancers, and little surprises kept everyone entertained, and the energy was just so joyful. The Christmas Parade in Valkenburg lasts about 20–25 minutes
This time, we thought we’d be smart and book a restaurant with a terrace view. Little did we know the entire parade-viewing experience had been commercialised.
Time to introduce the BOOKINGS FOR PARADE VIEWING NOW COME IN THE FORM OF RESTAURANT RESERVATIONS.
Restaurants along the parade route now accept only reservation-based diners. They have special reservation time blocks for December parade evenings. We had reserved a table at La Bodega Valkenburg on Grotestraat 1. It is a cosy tapas place with a large terrace right on the parade route. There's a mandatory Christmas parade menu starting at €39 per person. Kids have a rather mediocre fried-options kids menu. And if you prefer to order from the regular menu, you can but on top of the fixed Christmas menu charge. That was still acceptable. What was not acceptable was the service and the staff behaviour.
The service was appalling, staff was rude, zero courtesy and absolutely no sense of urgency. Multiple tables waited over an hour without starters and many simply walked out. They just kept pushing drinks to compensate for poor service. They didn't even bring the food for the kids after several requests. The only person who seemed genuinely regretful was the chef, who apologised a dozen times when our food finally arrived two hours later.
As expected, crowds gathered on the streets anyway, blocking the view of restaurant guests. Staff kept shooing people away, which created chaos because technically, restaurants don’t own the street. Eventually the police arrived, cleared the path so the floats and dancers could move, and only then did the parade flow smoothly. Reserved diners got their view but the situation absolutely killed the festive vibe for the onlookers. I genuinely felt bad for families who couldn’t afford it. Festivals shouldn’t feel inaccessible.
Restaurants Along the Parade Route
If you’re willing to cough up €40+ per person (I'm not sure about the other restaurants along the route, but I'm guessing pretty much all of them have standardised this pratice of Christmas Parade Menu) and wait 90–120 minutes for food, here are the spots with the best parade views. Their terraces overlook the parade route directly, and they’re heated but be prepared for slow service (Read reviews). Tip: Reserve for 7.00 pm and specifically request a street-facing terrace seat.
Restaurant Bombarino
Bar & Restaurant Bellini
Meat @ Valkenhof
Il Forno
Le Bistro Valkenburg
Aan de Linde
Jan Deckerstraat 1b, 6301 GX Valkenburg
If you want something calmer, this one sits by the river Geul. Still close enough to feel festive, but less chaotic. The food is fresh and elegant, though again, reviews mention indifferent staff.
If I ever return to Valkenburg, I'll definitely also..
stroll through their shopping district. It’s quaint, full of charm, and has such a lovely collection of boutiques along Grotestraat, Louis van de Maesenstraat, Irmengardpassage, and around Berkelplein. I wish I had more time for it this trip.
Final Thoughts
Valkenburg still has a spark of magic, but it’s no longer the spontaneous, charming Christmas town we discovered in 2020. The caves remain fascinating, the parade is still beautiful and the town glows with festive energy, yet the increasing commercialization is hard to ignore. Timed cave entries, paid admissions, and parade-viewing tied to expensive restaurant menus take away a little of that carefree Christmas spirit.
Would I recommend visiting? Yes, especially if you’ve never experienced an underground Christmas market before. Just go with the right expectations, plan your cave timings in advance, book your parking early and prepare for crowds and slower service.
For first-timers, it’s enchanting. For those who remember the old Valkenburg, it may feel a bit too commercial.
The town still knows how to create a magical Christmas atmosphere, you just need patience, a warm jacket, and a willingness to accept that some parts of the charm now come at a cost.
If you’re planning your own visit to Valkenburg’s magical Christmas markets, here’s a handy list of all the essential bookings and information you’ll need, from cave tickets to parking and restaurant reservations:
Activity / Place | Booking / Info |
1-Day Valkenburg Christmas Cave Trip from Paris | |
Municipal Cave (Gemeentegrot) Tickets | |
Velvet Cave (Fluweelengrot) Tickets | |
Public Transport to Valkenburg (from The Hague) |
Use this as your one-stop reference to plan your visit efficiently, secure your tickets ahead, and enjoy Valkenburg’s festive charm without the stress.
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