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Phnom Penh: Say It Right, See It All

  • Writer: Amy
    Amy
  • Jan 25
  • 21 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

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First, let's get that right. It’s pronounced Puh-NOM PEN, not “Nom Pen”.


Cambodia’s Capital of Contrasts

Before I ever arrived, Phnom Penh already lived in my mind. Through books, documentaries, and films, it was a city characterized by unimaginable brutality, survival, and resilience. Watching 'First They Killed My Father' and reading Loung Ung’s memoir prepared me emotionally, but nothing truly prepares you for standing where history unfolded.


At the same time, I was curious about the Phnom Penh of today. How would it look like when the torment was only from the recent past? Were they still rebuilding themselves? It was a capital rebuilding itself after one of the darkest chapters of modern history. First look was of the city was full of contrasts! There were glass towers rising beside pagodas, tuk-tuks sharing roads with luxury cars, and local Cambodian eateries thriving alonside Burger King and ColdStone!


Phnom Penh, A Cambodian Capital of Contrasts.
Phnom Penh, A Cambodian Capital of Contrasts.

Thus, we began our Cambodia journey here not to tick off sights, but to understand the country at its core. Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s political, commercial, and historical heart. The city begs you to slow down, listen, and remember before you move on.

Table of Contents: Phnom Penh: Say It Right, See It All

Cambodia’s Capital of Contrasts

Phnom Penh of Today

Day 1 – Settling In

Where To Stay

Day 2

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Dinner at Bassac Lane

Day 3

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

National Museum of Cambodia

Wat Phnom

Baitong Body Massage

Day 4

Central Market (Phsar Thmey)

Mekong Riverside Promenade and Cruise

Mekong River Cruise

Phnom Penh Night Market (Phsar Reatrey)

Experiences You Shouldn’t Miss

Koh Dach (Silk Island)

Street Food Culture in Phnom Penh

Kun Khmer Kickboxing Match

Final Thoughts

Phnom Penh of Today

Phnom Penh is situated in the south-central part of Cambodia. It is flanked by Kandal Province to the north, Kandal Province to the south, Kandal Province to the east, and Kandal Province to the west, and lies at the confluence of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong, and Bassac rivers. Phnom Penh is the commercial, cultural, and business capital of Cambodia, housing the Royal Palace, government institutions, foreign embassies, major companies, banks, universities, and key cultural institutions. People from all over Cambodia move here seeking job opportunities and better income prospects. The city has a population of around 2 million people and is known for its political importance, riverside promenades, historic landmarks, colonial architecture, busy markets, and role as the country’s main economic hub.


Tip: Learn how to pronounce Phnom Penh correctly before arriving. Locals appreciate the effort more than you’d expect.


Day 1 – Settling In

We flew Etihad from the Netherlands as there is no direct flight, with a stopover in Abu Dhabi. The total travel time was around 14 hours. We landed at Techo International Airport, Phnom Penh’s new international airport. The drive to the hotel from the airport took about 35 minutes.


If you need an airport transfer or pick up from Techo International Airport, I highly recommend booking it in advance via my link. We used a trusted service, and it was smooth, reliable, and hassle free after a long flight. BOOK HERE.


Given everything I had read about Phnom Penh’s devastation after the Khmer Rouge regime, the city surprised me. Wide roads, gleaming high-rises, polished restaurants, and sleek cars painted a picture of rapid development. Yet alongside this modernity were street vendors pushing carts, small neighbourhood markets where locals and tourists alike sat on plastic mats and shared their food, and colorful tuk-tuks weaving through traffic. The coexistence felt organic, old and new living side by side without trying to outshine each other.

A tuk tuk is a common mode of transportation in Cambodia. It is basically a three wheeled motorized vehicle, similar to a small open taxi, used for short to medium distances within cities and towns. Local tuk-tuk fares for everyday 1 km-ish trips are generally around $1 – $3 USD (roughly €0.90 – €2.70).

We passed massive bureaucratic buildings inspired by traditional temple architecture (seen in the Embassy area), areas dotted with lantern-lit restaurants, some local, some unmistakably American. Eventually, we pulled into our hotel driveway. We had kept USD 1, 2, and 5 notes handy for tipping. After tipping our driver, we made our way to the hotel entrance. Tipping culture is quite significant in Cambodia, especially in the tourism and service industry, and small tips are always appreciated.

In Cambodia, USD is accepted almost everywhere. The local currency is the Cambodian Riel (KHR), which is also widely accepted. Please note that many places accept only new, clean USD notes, and old or damaged notes are often refused. As a reference, 1 USD ≈ 4,000 KHR, 1 EUR ≈ 4,600–4,700 KHR, and 1 INR ≈ 44–45 KHR.


Phnom Penh at a glance: Independence Monument, a classic Cambodian tuk tuk (remorque) weaving through traffic, the everyday buzz of Central Market (Phsar Thmey), and a pagoda standing tall between modern skyscrapers.
Phnom Penh at a glance: Independence Monument, a classic Cambodian tuk tuk (remorque) weaving through traffic, the everyday buzz of Central Market (Phsar Thmey), and a pagoda standing tall between modern skyscrapers.

Our itinerary was planned in such a way that we spent two days in Phnom Penh, then travelled to Siem Reap, and returned to Phnom Penh for the final day before flying out. Phnom Penh worked well as both our entry and exit city because of its international airport connections. For the first two nights, we stayed at Baitong Hotel & Resort in the Embassy 1 area, which was calm and convenient for sightseeing. On our return from Siem Reap, we spent the last night at Plantation Urban Resort & Spa, closer to the city centre, which made a good base for our final day in Phnom Penh. So, in total we spent half of Day 1 and three full days, so 3.5 days in Phnom Penh in total.


Baitong Hotel & Resort, a four-star property is in the heart of Phnom Penh. It is located in the main embassy area in Phnom Penh, called BKK1, short for Boeung Keng Kang 1. The first look of the hotel felt like an oasis. With its tropical garden views, swimming pool, rooftop bar, spa services, and a comfortable suite, it delivered exactly what it promised. Its a great location, because there are number of multi-cuisine restaurants nearby at walking distance, few right outside the hotel. And all the major tourist attractions are a walk or tuk-tuk away. What truly stood out, though, was the warm, attentive hospitality of the Cambodian staff, genuine and unforced.


This hotel is listed on trusted platforms like Trip.com, Hotels.com, Expedia, Booking.com and Agoda, making it easy to compare prices and reviews before booking. If you book through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.


Baitong Hotel & Resort, Phnom Penh
Baitong Hotel & Resort, Phnom Penh

Plantation Urban Resort & Spa is a 4 star property located at 28 Samdach Preah Thoamak Lekhet Ouk Street (184), Phnom Penh 12206, close to the historic centre. The hotel blends urban and traditional décor and features two swimming pools with cabanas and a tropical feel, the fine dining restaurant La Pergola, and a relaxed poolside restaurant serving Khmer and international food. One of its biggest advantages is location. It is within walking distance or a short drive of major sights like the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, and Central Market, making it very convenient for sightseeing. With a spa, massage services, excellent dining, and calm pool areas, it’s also a hotel where you could easily spend an entire day without stepping out. Service is consistently excellent and well above expectations.


This hotel is listed on trusted platforms like Trip.com, Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia and Agoda, making it easy to compare prices and reviews before booking. If you book through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.


Plantation Urban Resort & Spa
Plantation Urban Resort & Spa, Phnom Penh

Tip: BKK1 and the historic center are one of the safest, most walkable areas in Phnom Penh, ideal for families and first-time visitors.


After a swim for the kids and dinner at the rooftop restaurant, travel fatigue caught up with us. We turned in early, knowing the next day would be emotionally demanding.

Where To Stay

If you’re staying in Phnom Penh, BKK1 is a great base. It’s safe, walkable, and popular with expats, with hotels like Novotel Phnom Penh BKK1, Baitong Hotel & Resort, and Courtyard by Marriott offering modern, tourist-friendly stays. You’ll also find hostels and serviced apartments throughout the neighborhood, making BKK1 a versatile and convenient base for any type of traveler.


Beyond BKK1, you can also consider Plantation Urban Resort & Spa, located in the Daun Penh / city centre area and very convenient for sightseeing. Other good options in this area include river facing hotels like Palace Gate Hotel & Resort and Hotel Emion Phnom Penh, all close to the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, and ideal for evening riverside walks.

For a livelier, trendier vibe, the Tonle Bassac area near Bassac Lane has stylish options like Shangri-La Phnom Penh. If you’re travelling on a budget, the Russian Market (Toul Tom Poung) area offers good value stays, including Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh and several smaller boutique guesthouses

After a refreshing swim for the kids, we headed to the rooftop restaurant for dinner. Travel fatigue caught up with us quickly, and we called it an early night, ready to meet Cambodia properly the next day.


Day 2

We were ready in the hotel lobby by 12:45 pm, waiting for our driver to take us to our planned visit of the day, the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. The tour was scheduled to begin at 1:00 pm and last roughly four hours. We booked it through GetYourGuide, simply because it made the process seamless and came highly recommended.


Knowing this would be a deeply sombre experience, we spoke to the kids beforehand, preparing them for what they would see and hear.


Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (Killing Fields)

Before deciding to visit places like these, it helps to understand their history.


On April 17, 1975, the Khmer Rouge, under the leadership of Pol Pot, entered Phnom Penh and immediately began evacuating the city. In a matter of days, nearly two million people were forced out of their homes and made to walk to rural labour camps. Hospitals were emptied, families were separated, and the city was left eerily silent.


Touching memorials at the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, highlighting the historical wounds and lasting memories of the horrors from the Democratic Kampuchea era.
Touching memorials at the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, highlighting the historical wounds and lasting memories of the horrors from the Democratic Kampuchea era.

Anyone perceived as a threat to the regime, intellectuals, teachers, journalists, professionals, religious figures, former government officials, and even people who wore glasses, was accused of being an enemy of the state. Many were arrested under false pretences, often told they were being relocated or re-educated, only to be imprisoned, tortured, and later executed.


Across Cambodia, there are hundreds of documented killing sites, commonly referred to as the Killing Fields. Among them, Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, just outside Phnom Penh, is the most well-known and was one of the largest execution sites linked to the infamous S-21 prison (now Tuol Sleng). What was once an orchard and a Chinese cemetery was transformed by the Khmer Rouge, under Pol Pot’s leadership, into what we now know as the Killing Fields. Here, around 20,000 people were executed, and over the course of just a few years, nearly 2.5 million lives were lost and buried across Cambodia.


After the Khmer Rouge regime collapsed in 1979, Choeung Ek was discovered by a local resident. What stood out immediately was how carefully the place had been hidden. The entire area was surrounded by three layers of barbed-wire fencing, held up by steel and concrete posts almost two metres high, and further concealed by dense forest.


There was a single iron gate on the western side that served as both the entrance and exit. Inside the fenced area, there were once four simple wooden huts. Today, stone plaques mark where these huts originally stood. One hut was used to hold prisoners, another for staff, a third to store chemicals such as DDT powder and anthracite that were spread over bodies, and the fourth was used to store equipment. Standing there, it becomes clear how planned and deliberate everything was, and how carefully it was kept hidden from the outside world.


Walking through Choeung Ek gave me goosebumps. The visit isn’t graphic in presentation, but the weight of what happened there is overwhelming. Scattered across the site were objects like handcuffs, ropes, bamboo sticks, iron rods, cart wheels, hoes, knives, and axes. Ordinary tools, used for extraordinary cruelty.The grounds hold mass graves, where men, women, and children were killed, many without bullets, as ammunition was considered too costly. One of the most distressing sites is the “killing tree,” where infants and children were brutally murdered. Even today, fragments of clothing and human remains can still surface, especially after heavy rains.


On the left, there's a fenced grave area; in the middle, the "Killing Tree" is decorated with bracelets as a tribute; on the right, a glass memorial filled with 8000 skulls stands as a reminder of the lives lost and a call for peace.
On the left, there's a fenced grave area; in the middle, the "Killing Tree" is decorated with bracelets as a tribute; on the right, a glass memorial filled with 8000 skulls stands as a reminder of the lives lost and a call for peace.

It definitely is a reminder of why history must never be forgotten or repeated.

The guided portion of the visit lasts about 1.5 hours, after which there’s time to walk through the memorial independently, or take a break before continuing. There is a shop inside that sells fresh juices, coconut water and some biscuits. Good to pick up something especially if you have kids and haven't carried anything for them toe at.

Soon after, we boarded the bus again, weaving through Phnom Penh’s traffic toward our next stop, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.


Recommended Tours: This one is a must-do. Book one of the below tours easily by just clicking on the link provided.


Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

We reached the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in about 20 minutes. The museum is located in a busy part of Phnom Penh, in the Boeung Keng Kang III neighborhood, surrounded by streets lined with shops, cafes, and local traffic. Tuol Sleng, the name translates to “hill of the poisonous trees,” and it was once a lively high school before being turned into a high security prison by the regime. Around 20,000 people were detained here, many subjected to brutal torture. Today, it stands as a powerful museum and a is a reminder of Cambodia’s darkest chapter.

Unfortunately, I was wearing shorts that day, and I was given a sarong to cover up before entering. I knew that temples required modest clothing, but I hadn’t realized that museums and memorial sites like the Killing Fields also require visitors to cover shoulders and knees. Dressing modestly here is a way to show respect for the lives lost and the tragedies that occurred.


The entry fee was $6 per adult, while children below 12 years could enter for free, so my kids walked in without paying. The museum also offers audio guides for $10 each, which are useful for people who don’t understand English or who visit without a guide. Since we had a guide, we didn’t need them.

The museum is made up of four buildings that were once part of a school, complete with classrooms and a playground, before being taken over by the Khmer Rouge. These buildings are now known as Blocks A, B, C, and D.

  • Block A was mainly used for administration and interrogations. Prisoners were held here, often chained to iron beds, with some of the realities of this space documented through photographs.

  • Block B contained some of the earliest detention rooms and small prison cells.

  • Block C was the main torture block, with walls lined with photographs of prisoners and equipment used during interrogations. This section can be particularly disturbing and may be difficult for children.

  • Block D housed cells for women and children, along with rooms where medical experiments were carried out.

The haunting exhibits of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
The haunting exhibits of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

The gardens and playgrounds that once rang with children’s laughter were repurposed by the Khmer Rouge for executions and outdoor punishment.


While walking through the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, I was struck by how openly Cambodia remembers its darkest past. Every room, photo, and name makes you stop and face the truth. Nothing is softened, everything is meant to be seen, understood, and remembered. That’s why it feels wrong that sites like this were ever placed on a tentative UNESCO list. Places like Tuol Sleng should be recognised without debate, because the world needs to remember.


It made me think of India’s own suffering under colonial rule, years of exploitation, famines, and the deaths of millions. Yet it’s sad how little of this history is properly remembered or shown. Very few museums truly confront it, and most of it is barely captured in our history books. Being in Tuol Sleng, the difference felt deeply unsettling.

Fact:

What’s often forgotten is the bigger picture. Cambodia was heavily bombed by the United States during the Vietnam War, long before the Khmer Rouge took over, which left the country unstable. Justice also came too late. The tribunal was set up decades after the genocide, and Pol Pot was never fully held accountable. The Khmer Rouge regime collapsed in January 1979 after the Vietnamese invasion. Pol Pot fled to the northwestern regions of Cambodia near the Thai border, where he continued to exert influence for years. He was eventually placed under house arrest by rival factions and died in 1998, reportedly of heart failure. Tuol Sleng reminds us not just of the horrors that happened, but also of how delayed justice and global politics let Cambodia down.

Inside the museum, there are testimonials of survivors and biographies of those who lost their lives. We were incredibly fortunate to meet Chum Mey, a 95-year old Khmer Rouge survivor and one of the very few known survivors of the notorious S-21 prison camp in Phnom Penh. To meet him, to hear his voice, and to witness his quiet strength was a profound honour. Despite surviving unimaginable cruelty, he lives with dignity, courage, and an unwavering belief in hope.


An inspiring meeting with Chum Mey, a survivor of the Cambodian genocide, as he shares his story and book.
An inspiring meeting with Chum Mey, a survivor of the Cambodian genocide, as he shares his story and book.

Many have asked how the children managed this experience. They were prepared beforehand, spoken to honestly and gently about Cambodia’s history and why remembering matters. At the sites, they observed quietly, asked curious questions like all children do, and understood that this was not just about the past, but about humanity, compassion, and ensuring such horrors are never repeated. This is not an easy visit, but it is an essential one for anyone travelling to Cambodia.

After the sombre and heavy-hearted experience at Tuol Sleng, we headed back to the hotel to freshen up and collect our thoughts. The afternoon had been intense, but we took it as a learning moment.


Recommended Tours: This one is a must-do. Book one of the below tours easily by just clicking on the link provided.


Dinner at Bassac Lane

Bassac Lane felt like a reset. This narrow street is known for its trendy cafes, boutique restaurants, and stylish but relaxed bars. The crowd felt decent and comfortable, with noticeably more families around, which instantly made it feel right for us.


Exploring Bassac Street: Enjoying a bustling Phnom Penh neighborhood, stopping by Piccola Italia Da Luigi for some authentic pizza, and savoring dumplings.
Exploring Bassac Street: Enjoying a bustling Phnom Penh neighborhood, stopping by Piccola Italia Da Luigi for some authentic pizza, and savoring dumplings.

You can grab Mediterranean style dishes at Elia Greek Kitchen Bassac Lane, enjoy international fare and cocktails at Aura Phnom Penh, or try fusion plates at Ambience and Bistrot Bassac. There are also Asian options like ST63 Bassac Restaurant, Bassac Pho, and casual food court style dining at The Corner Bassac. We wrapped up the evening with dinner at Aura, which turned out to be the perfect, no nonsense way to end the night.


Recommended tour: GetYourGuide has a highly recommended Phnom Penh evening food tour, some of which include Bassac Lane stops, and can be booked through my affiliate link.


Day 3

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda take about 1.5 hours to explore and offer a beautiful introduction to traditional Cambodian architecture, with gold and white buildings, detailed apsara carvings, and carefully kept palace grounds. While visitors cannot enter the main throne hall, the golden coronation throne can be viewed from the doorway. The complex also includes the royal armory, housing ceremonial weapons and costumes, a traditional dancing hall, and the Silver Pagoda area with its four surrounding stupas and Ramayana murals.


Exploring the majestic architecture and cultural heritage of Phnom Penh's Royal Palace and the serene Silver Buddha.
Exploring the majestic architecture and cultural heritage of Phnom Penh's Royal Palace and the serene Silver Buddha.

Timings are 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM. Since it’s the official residence of the king, the visiting hours are really short. The entrance was expensive, in comparison to all the historic Siem reap Temple entrances, amounting to €10 per adult. kids below 6 were free.


And if you forgot to wear clothes that covered your shoulders and knees, then you had to buy a tshirt or pants for €3 at the entrance, a smart marketing gimmick, rather than handing out aprons for free like they did in the Genocidal museum.


You can also Hire a local guide at the entrance (for about $10–15) but we decided against it because we had already read about it all on the official website.

I’ve written a detailed blog post covering the layout, symbolism, and tips for visiting, which I highly recommend reading before planning your visit to fully appreciate what you’re seeing.


National Museum of Cambodia

Often overlooked, the National Museum offers excellent insight into Khmer art and history, especially if time in Siem Reap is limited. Apparently the National museum of Siem Reap is better than the one in Phnom Penh.

National Museum of Cambodia
A captivating view of the National Museum of Cambodia highlights its traditional Khmer architecture.

The National Museum of Cambodia is Cambodia’s main museum for cultural history and archaeology, housed in a 1920 French colonial building in Chey Chumneas, Phnom Penh. Although the museum itself is not very large, it takes around 1.5 to 2 hours to visit because of the sheer number of artefacts on display, including Khmer sculptures from the 5th century onwards, as well as ceramics, bronzes, and ethnographic objects. The collection includes over 14,000 items.


Tip (visiting with kids): Most of the display information is in French and Khmer, so having a guide or taking the audio guide (around €5) helps keep the visit engaging. We took breaks at the museum café for snacks and drinks, which made the visit much easier with kids. Entry is $10 USD, cash only.

Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom, the city’s namesake hilltop temple, is considered the birthplace of Phnom Penh. Locals come here to pray for luck, success, and protection, and it remains one of the city’s most important spiritual sites. Visit early in the morning or at sunset for a quieter experience and gentle city views.


The iconic stupa of Wat Phnom stands majestically in Phnom Penh.
The iconic stupa of Wat Phnom stands majestically in Phnom Penh.


Baitong Body Massage

I had booked an appointment for a Baitong Body Massage, curious to try something different from my usual Thai massage. This deeply relaxing treatment uses natural oils in a calm, soothing space to ease muscle tension, quiet the nervous system, and help the body fully unwind, exactly what was needed after a long, hectic day of sightseeing.


While Thai massage is more active, oil free, and energising, the Baitong Body Massage focuses purely on relaxation. As one of the hotel’s signature treatments, it’s a lovely way to slow down and reset while in Phnom Penh.


Day 4:

Central Market (Phsar Thmey)

After indulging in a dumplings lunch at the ___ restaurant on Bassac street, we made our way to the We visited Central Market, a massive art-deco structure. This market is a web of shops selling everything under the sun. You can buy souvenirs here or even clothing, shoes and bags.


At Central Market (Phsar Thmey), you'll find amazing wooden sculptures with intricate carvings, a lively jewellry section under the big dome, and bright floral displays.
At Central Market (Phsar Thmey), you'll find amazing wooden sculptures with intricate carvings, a lively jewellry section under the big dome, and bright floral displays.

As a souvenir, you can buy a versatile Krama scarf, exquisite silk products, aromatic Kampot Pepper & Salt, intricate silverware, local palm sugar, carved wood/stone replicas (temple art), and eco-friendly crafts like recycled bombshell items, alongside spiritual goods, organic soaps, and regional snack.


Tip: Bargain politely. To give you a ball park estimate, the price for co-ord set is $15. However, you can negotiate your way down to $10. Smiles go a long way.


Mekong Riverside Promenade and Cruise

We later walked along the Mekong Riverside Promenade, also known as Sisowath Quay. This is one of Phnom Penh’s most touristic areas, popular for sunset walks, street performers, souvenir stalls, and views of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers meeting. However, as we walked along the promenade, we found it quite littered and extremely chaotic, with hawkers everywhere and touts approaching passers-by, which didn’t feel very inviting.


A Khmer guardian lion (Singha) standing watch along the Mekong promenade in Phnom Penh.
A Khmer guardian lion (Singha) standing watch along the Mekong promenade in Phnom Penh.

After all the walking at Central Market, our feet were completely giving up. We just wanted to sit down in a nice restaurant and eat good, flavourful food. Sidd had suggested a river cruise, but once we saw the boats up close, the plastic chairs, flimsy tables, and flashing coloured lights felt more tacky than charming. That said, the photos and reviews look great, and if it had been closer to sunset, I might have considered it for the relaxed river views, food, and drinks, but we simply weren’t in the mood.


Mekong River Cruise
Mekong River Cruise

Recommended tour: This is a Phnom Penh sunset cruise along the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. The cruise usually runs for about 2 hours and departs from Sisowath Quay. These boats leave at 5 PM and at 7 PM. There are three packages to choose from:

  • A Bronze Cruise Only option at €7 for sunset views with drinks available to purchase onboard;

  • An Amber “City Lights” Cruise at €14 with free-flow beer, soft drinks, and fresh fruit while enjoying Phnom Penh’s illuminated skyline;

  • A Gold Package at €20 that includes a BBQ buffet with unlimited food, free-flow beer, soft drinks, and fruit. If relaxed river views, food, and drinks are your thing, this could be a nice way to spend an evening in Phnom Penh. BOOK HERE.


Nearby streets like Street 136 and Street 130 are part of Phnom Penh’s Riverside nightlife area, but they don’t have a single official district name like “Red Light District.” They are informally known as part of the Riverside bar and nightlife strip along Sisowath Quay.


These streets are lined with hostess bars, go-go bars, massage parlours, and late-night drinking spots, and sex work is openly visible here. The atmosphere was loud and crowded, reminding me of 'Walking Street' in Pattaya, Thailand. Especially in the evenings, the streets are adorned in neon lights and music spilling onto the street. For us, it wasn’t quite the environment we wanted to linger in.


Phnom Penh Night Market (Phsar Reatrey)

Once we were ready, we booked a Grab taxi and headed to the night market, ready to experience a livelier side of Phnom Penh. The market runs along Sisowath Quay from around 6:30 pm to 11:00 pm. The night market is popular with both locals and tourists looking for affordable food, shopping, and a relaxed atmosphere by the river.


I was genuinely shocked by the prices. Clothes that could easily pass for something from a Ralph Lauren showroom were selling for as little as $2.50. When you remember how much fast fashion sold in the West is made in Cambodia, it suddenly makes sense. Buying here felt more honest and definitely easier on the wallet.

A bustling night market in Phnom Penh featuring vibrant stalls with colourful clothing, unique trinkets, and local crafts.
A bustling night market in Phnom Penh featuring vibrant stalls with colourful clothing, unique trinkets, and local crafts.

There is a dedicated food section where vendors sell freshly cooked dishes ranging from grilled seafood, noodles, fried rice, skewers, and local snacks to fresh juices and desserts. After buying their food, people sit on plastic mats or low stools laid out directly on the ground, eating, chatting, and spending time together. It’s casual, communal, and very local in feel.


Visitors enjoy local cuisine on mats and at bustling food stalls at Phnom Penh's lively Night Market.
Visitors enjoy local cuisine on mats and at bustling food stalls at Phnom Penh's lively Night Market.

Recommended tour: I recommedn this 4-hour guided evening food tour that takes you around Phnom Penh by tuk-tuk, making stops at local eateries, street food spots, and the Phnom Penh Night Market. It includes multiple Cambodian food tastings, drinks, and a final stop at a local bar. Along the way, you also get short photo stops at key landmarks like Independence Monument and areas near the Royal Palace. BOOK HERE.


Experiences You Shouldn’t Miss!

Koh Dach (Silk Island)

Just a short ferry ride from Phnom Penh, Koh Dach, also known as Silk Island, is your gateway to a traditional Cambodian village life. Known for silk weaving, quiet roads, and riverside homes, it feels worlds away from the busy capital. Rent bicycles on the island and explore slowly. This is Phnom Penh’s peaceful counterpoint.


A Buddhist temple complex on Koh Dach, or Silk Island.
A Buddhist temple complex on Koh Dach, or Silk Island.

Recommended tour: I highly recommend the Silk Island cycling and half day village tours. It’s typically a half-day morning tour (around 4–5 hours) that starts from Phnom Penh and includes a short ferry ride across the Mekong River. With a local guide, you visit traditional villages on the island, see silk weaving in family run workshops, walk or cycle through quiet roads, and get a look at everyday rural life. BOOK HERE.


Exploring the intricate art of silk weaving during an enriching 8-hour tour to Silk Island and Udong Mountain.
Exploring the intricate art of silk weaving during an enriching 8-hour tour to Silk Island and Udong Mountain via GYG.

Street Food Culture in Phnom Penh

Street food is central to daily life in Phnom Penh. Locals eat breakfast and dinner outdoors, often seated on tiny stools by the roadside.


A taste of Phnom Penh, comforting Kuy Teav soup, fresh Num Kachay-style appetiser, rich Cambodian iced coffee, and sweet street-style milk tea to cool things down.
A taste of Phnom Penh with comforting Kuy Teav soup, fresh Mango sticky rice with jackfruit pieces, rich Cambodian iced coffee, and sweet street-style milk tea to cool things down.

The best areas to try street food include Phsar Kandal, Russian Market, Olympic Market, and Street 51 near Wat Langka. Must try dishes are Fish Amok (soft fish cooked in coconut curry), Nom Banh Chok (rice noodles with a mild fish sauce and fresh herbs), Bai Sach Chrouk (grilled pork served with rice), Lok Lak (tender beef cooked in a light pepper sauce), and Num Pang (a crispy baguette sandwich filled with meat, pickles, and sauce). Sweet treats like fried bananas, fried ice cream (my favourite!), sticky rice with mango and jackfruit, and Cambodian iced coffee are unmissable.


Recommended tour: If you want to dive into Phnom Penh’s food scene with local insights and a fun ride included, consider booking the Phnom Penh’s Ultimate Food Tour with Drinks and Tuk-Tuk through my link. BOOK HERE.


Kun Khmer Kickboxing Match

Kiu really wanted to watch a Kun Khmer kickboxing match in Phnom Penh, but unfortunately, matches only take place on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and we couldn’t reshuffle our dates to fit it in. Kun Khmer is Cambodia’s national martial art and has deep historical roots, going back centuries. It’s raw, intense, and very traditional, with fighters using punches, kicks, elbows, and knees in fast-paced bouts. The atmosphere is lively and local, with cheering crowds and live music, making it feel more like a cultural event than just a sporting match.


Recommended tour: If you’re in Phnom Penh on the right days, I highly recommend watching a Kun Khmer match. It’s one of the most authentic ways to experience local Cambodian culture and something you’re unlikely to see elsewhere. BOOK NOW


Intense Muay Thai match unfolds in Phnom Penh as a fighter delivers a powerful kick in the ring.
Intense Kun Khmer kickboxing match unfolds in Phnom Penh as a fighter delivers a powerful kick in the ring.

Final Thoughts

I was genuinely surprised by Phnom Penh. Given its tragic recent past, I didn’t expect the city to feel so modern while still holding on so strongly to its traditions. Phnom Penh is not an easy city, but it is an honest one. It doesn’t hide its scars, carrying them openly alongside hope, progress, and resilience. This is not a city you simply visit, it’s a city you feel long after you’ve learned how to pronounce its name correctly.


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Exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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Looking for unique travel experiences? Look no further than The Morning Brew. Hi, I am Amy, exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ My blog is dedicated to providing families with the most exciting, fun, and authentic travel experiences. The Morning Brew is my travel journey of travel escapades to gorgeous places, meeting like-minded people, exploring different culinary treats and the experience of travelling with kids. I invite you to explore my content and reach out and engage—I’m happy to hear from you, as well. Subscribe to our blog for more updates and travel inspiration. Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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