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Big 40s, Big Five – Safari Magic in Kenya’s Maasai Mara

  • Writer: Amy
    Amy
  • Sep 8
  • 25 min read

Updated: Sep 25

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All the images in this blog post (EXCEPT FOR 'OTHER SAFARI OPTIONS') are my own and are copyrighted. Please do not download, copy, or use them without my written permission. If you would like to use any of the photos, kindly reach out to me for approval.


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Although our game drive was to begin only at 7:30 am, I was up by 5:30. Sleep was impossible, the excitement of a full day in the Maasai Mara had me wide awake. From the crack of dawn, the kids were already singing Hakuna Matata, their little voices carrying into the cool morning air. That’s how much we were looking forward to this - Our Maasai Mara Safari in Kenya!


Maasai Mara Safari in Kenya

How do I even begin to describe what it feels like to be there? This trip was a dream we carried for years, first before the kids, when it simply wasn’t within reach. Later, after they were born, they were too little, and the worry of malaria always lingered at the back of our minds. After nearly 9 years of waiting, the time finally felt right to explore the savannahs. And what better way to celebrate Bunty’s and my entry into the Big 40s than with the Big Five? Surrounded by lion prides, elephant herds, and endless golden grasslands, it felt like the most unforgettable birthday, a gift from nature itself, and an experience that truly changed us.


And what a stage to celebrate it on, the Maasai Mara, one of the most iconic wildlife reserves in the world! The name alone stirs up images of golden plains, dramatic chases, and the wild at its rawest. It’s home to elephants, lions, cheetahs, giraffes, and countless other incredible animals. Most travelers arrive with one hope above all: to tick off the legendary “Big Five” namely lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino. The phrase was coined long ago by hunters, not because these animals were the biggest, but because they were the most dangerous to track on foot. Today, thankfully, the meaning has shifted. For safari-goers like us, the Big Five now simply represents the dream sightings that make the Mara unforgettable.


Embarking on an unforgettable adventure in the Mara, fulfilling a lifelong dream.
Embarking on an unforgettable adventure in the Mara, fulfilling a lifelong dream.

The plan was to explore the Greater Mara, a vast stretch of about 1,700 square kilometers that forms the core of the Maasai Mara National Reserve. The reserve itself is divided into two main sections: the Greater Mara, which is what most people mean when they say “Maasai Mara,” and the Mara Triangle, a smaller part managed independently. Our day in the Greater Mara means taking us across open plains, river crossings, and countless wildlife encounters. The following day, we were to continue exploring more of the Greater Mara before crossing into the Mara Triangle where the Great Migration was to be witnessed (if luck was on our side). This way, we experience the best of both worlds, the expansive grasslands of the Greater Mara and the quieter, less crowded beauty of the Triangle.


Golden plains, scattered acacias, and the promise of adventure.
Golden plains, scattered acacias, and the promise of adventure.

The Maasai Mara has six main entry gates namely Talek, Sekenani, Oloolaimutia, Oloololo, Musiara, and Sand River. Out of these, Talek Gate is often the most popular choice, and for good reason. Its central location puts you right in the middle of some of the best game-viewing areas, especially near the Talek and Mara rivers where wildlife gathers in abundance. Many camps and lodges are also clustered around this gate, which makes it convenient if you’re staying nearby. From here, you can easily explore both the central plains and even head toward the Mara Triangle, giving you more flexibility in your drives. While other gates are better suited if you’re coming in directly from Nairobi or specific directions, Talek is ideal if you want to dive straight into the heart of the Mara. If you are in Sopa area, you can enter from Oloolaimutia gate, if you are in Sekenani, you can enter from Sekenani gate. But once you’re inside the park, you can access the entirety of the park. Every guide informs the other of great sightings.


Entrance to the Maasai Mara National Reserve at Talek Gate.
Entrance to the Maasai Mara National Reserve at Talek Gate.

Heart of the Greater Mara

We started off with great zeal. The savannah stretched endlessly, melting into the sky, the golden light of morning spilling across the plains. At first, the animals we saw seemed strangely solitary, creatures you usually expect in packs appeared alone: a lone hyena slipping through the grass, a solitary wildebeest trudging along as though it had lost its herd, a jackal darting quickly across the track. A quiet reminder to myself: just because the savannah is endless doesn’t mean it’s always full. Out here, nature moves at its own pace, not ours.


Then, as if to change the mood, a topi made a grand entrance, walking so close to our jeep it almost felt like it was posing for us. Calm, unbothered, grazing away. Topis are part of the antelope family and known for their speed, but this one looked like it had nothing urgent to do.

A majestic topi antelope standing alert in the grasslands
A majestic topi antelope standing alert in the grasslands

Not far away, a herd of zebras stood together, their stripes dazzling in the morning sun. Watching them interact instantly brought back memories of the Animal Planet documentaries I grew up on. And just when we thought the morning couldn’t surprise us more, a massive ostrich strutted past, wings flaring wide, looking like it owned the plains.


A herd of zebras grazes peacefully in the expansive savannah, with safari vehicles observing from a distance.
A herd of zebras grazes peacefully in the expansive savannah, with safari vehicles observing from a distance.

An ostrich relaxes in the savannah, its long neck and unique feathers making it look like a nature documentary star.
An ostrich relaxes in the savannah, its long neck and unique feathers making it look like a nature documentary star.

But it wasn’t just the animals that kept us on edge. The land itself had its own challenges. The terrain kept changing, smooth one moment and then suddenly bumpy, uneven, and harsh. Just when we thought we had settled into a rhythm, we hit a deep patch of mud that had turned into a bog. The jeep sank in, and for a second it felt like we weren’t going anywhere. Arya started crying, and I honestly thought the vehicle might topple over. The wheels spun helplessly, mud flying everywhere. Luckily, we weren’t alone. Other jeeps quickly came to our rescue. In true safari spirit, drivers jumped out, hooked up a heavy chain, and with a strong coordinated pull, dragged our jeep out of the mess. The relief was unbelievable. I was so thankful we had chosen the sturdy Morning Star jeep with windows all around. If we had taken the open lodge vehicle, we would have been covered in mud from head to toe.

Off-road adventure in the Mara! A jeep powers through the muddy bog.
Off-road adventure in the Mara! A jeep powers through the muddy bog.

Back on track, the day rewarded us with our very first big cat sighting. A cheetah lay sprawled lazily under a green bush. Dozens of jeeps lined up around it in silence, cameras clicking nonstop. The cheetah didn’t seem to care, but its face almost said, “What is going on here? Why are you all staring at me?” We took plenty of photos and videos before Alex, our guide, got news of another sighting nearby.


A cheetah rests under partial shade, its keen eyes scanning the savanna with a watchful gaze.
A cheetah rests under partial shade, its keen eyes scanning the savanna with a watchful gaze.

Very closy by a male lion with its watchful gaze on all our vehicles, his golden mane glowing in the sun. He wasn’t moving much, just watching silently, his gaze sweeping across the vehicles gathered around. For a few still minutes, the savannah went completely quiet, except for the faint clicking of cameras. In that silence, staring into the lion’s steady eyes, I felt the true power of the wild—raw, untamed, unforgettable.

Safari jeeps lined up, cameras clicking away at a lion in his own kingdom… makes you wonder, who’s really on display here?
Safari jeeps lined up, cameras clicking away at a lion in his own kingdom… makes you wonder, who’s really on display here?

And the day wasn’t done yet. Soon after, two magnificent young lions came into view, bellies full after a fresh feast. A wildebeest skeleton nearby told the story of the hunt. The lions stretched lazily, opened their eyes briefly, glanced at the cluster of jeeps, and promptly went back to sleep. Because here in the wild, there is no performance. Life is lived raw and unfiltered.


Two young lions rest amidst the tall grass, their watchful eyes and relaxed demeanor capturing the serenity of the African savannah.
Two young lions rest amidst the tall grass, their watchful eyes and relaxed demeanor capturing the serenity of the African savannah.

Not long after, Alex suddenly hit the brakes. There, crouched low in the grass, was a serval cat. Rare, elegant, and elusive, servals are not easy to spot in the Mara. With its long legs and strikingly spotted coat, it was the kind of sighting guides dream of showing their guests. We held our breath as it stalked its prey, and in a flash of movement, it leapt, catching its target with swift precision. The entire scene lasted only a few seconds, but the thrill stayed with us long after.

Our lucky day in the Mara: a serval cat, spotted and stunning.
Our lucky day in the Mara: a serval cat, spotted and stunning, a very rare sighting.

As if the Mara wanted to spoil us further, Sidd’s sharp eyes caught movement just ahead. A spotted hyena, one of the so-called “ugly five” (though Kiu strongly disagrees; it’s one of his favorites), emerged from the grass and came so close to our jeep that we could almost hear it breathe. It lingered for a few moments, curious, before slipping quietly into a tunnel. That raw, unfiltered closeness left us buzzing with excitement.

A solitary hyena strolls across the grassy plains, showcasing its distinctive spotted coat and powerful build in the wild.
A solitary hyena strolls across the grassy plains, showcasing its distinctive spotted coat and powerful build in the wild.

A little later, we reached the invisible line that marks the border between Kenya and Tanzania. A simple stone etched with KE on one side and TZ on the other was all that stood there. To one side stretched the endless Serengeti, and on the other, the vast Mara. Standing there, gazing out, felt surreal. So close, yet worlds apart.

Standing at the stone marker, Kenya on one side, Tanzania on the other. Serengeti within reach, but untouchable.
Standing at the stone marker, Kenya on one side, Tanzania on the other. Serengeti within reach, but untouchable.

From there, Alex steered us toward the Mara River, the stage for the legendary Great Migration. The air was heavy with anticipation. Hippos were already in the water, their round heads bobbing as they dozed lazily. The wildebeest could cross any moment, or not at all. That’s the wild for you, unpredictable and untamed. We waited an hour, eyes fixed on the riverbanks, but the migration didn’t happen that day. Instead, we were treated to something equally extraordinary: a pair of hippos mating, while nearly fifty others cooled off in the water. A couple even charged across to the other side with surprising speed.

Not something you see every day on safari, hippos in love.
Not something you see every day on safari, hippos in love.

All this while, a male lion lay hidden in the bushes nearby, so perfectly camouflaged that we only noticed it much later. And then came the boldest move of the day, our fearless guide decided it was the perfect spot for lunch, just 200 meters from where the lion rested. Out came our picnic, surrounded by open plains with Marabou storks circling overhead. The spread, sandwiches, samosas, eggs, chicken, fruit, and juice—had been lovingly packed by our lodge the night before. Eating in the middle of the wild, with danger so close and beauty all around, was a thrill in itself.

Braving our lunch in the Mara.
Braving our lunch in the Mara.

But of course, the Mara had one more twist. A Marabou stork waddled right up to us, lured in by the smell of food. The old hag actually looked rather cute strutting around, but when another joined in, we decided it was best not to push our luck. We quickly packed up and scrambled back into the jeep, laughing at the absurdity of it all. Lunch in the Mara is never boring.


Fueled up, we carried on into the afternoon. A herd of elephants appeared in the distance, grazing peacefully. With binoculars in hand, the sight felt magical. Not long after, the savannah grew quiet again, the animals seemingly melting into the tall grass. Perched high on a bare tree, a lone eagle scanned the horizon, its watchful silhouette the only movement in sight.

A majestic eagle perches gracefully atop a bare tree branch!
A majestic eagle perches gracefully atop a bare tree branch!

Moving into a lush green patch, we caught a glimpse of a lone jackal sprinting across the grass. We waited, hoping its partner might appear, but none followed. Not long after, a warthog family with three tiny piglets wandered by, the little ones dashing about in chaos while the adults continued grazing without a care.


Baby warthogs scurry energetically across the grassy landscape.
Baby warthogs scurry energetically across the grassy landscape.

Not long after, we spotted a herd of elands, the biggest antelopes I’ve ever seen. Even with their massive size and spiral horns, they moved so gracefully across the grass. Some stopped to graze while others just stood still, watching us quietly. It felt special to see such a large group together, blending strength and gentleness in the middle of the savannah. Few Thomson’s gazelles broke the stillness, sprinting across the plains in short bursts.

The largest antelopes of Africa, the elands, finally spotted! Graceful, calm, and perfectly at home in the Mara.
The largest antelopes of Africa, the elands, finally spotted! Graceful, calm, and perfectly at home in the Mara.

Sidd was again the one to spot a secretary bird striding gracefully across the grasslands. He truly has a sharp eye for wildlife, throughout the drive, he barely blinked, scanning the horizon from the jeep with unwavering focus. The secretary bird itself is quite a sight, with its long legs, eagle-like head, and distinctive feathered crest that almost looks like quill pens tucked behind its ears. But what makes it truly fascinating is its hunting style, it doesn’t swoop down like other raptors. Instead, it stalks the ground and uses its powerful legs to stomp its prey, often snakes, with swift and deadly precision. One strike can be enough to stun or kill, making it one of the most unique hunters of the savannah. Another one with a powerful kick are the ostriches, which were plentiful, appearing time and again across the savannah, beautiful, tall, slender birds.

A secretary bird struts through the tall grasses of the savanna like it's on a catwalk.
A secretary bird struts through the tall grasses of the savanna like it's on a catwalk.

The smaller sightings didn’t escape us either. Three banded mongooses darted across the track, quick as lightning, another sharp catch by Sidd. And then, a family of elephants appeared, looking every bit as majestic as we had hoped. Buffaloes, antelopes, and more warthogs dotted the scene around them. At one point, warthogs dashed across the herd, prompting the elephants to push closer together in a protective move, shielding their young calves. A little later, a lone bull elephant gave us quite a show, pulling at the grass, chewing noisily, and fussing over every bite as if it were the best meal of his life. And then, in true safari fashion, came the grand finale: the elephant paused, lifted its tail, and took what I can only describe as a royal dump. The kids burst out laughing, and I couldn’t resist teasing them that they were no different, always yelling to go potty right in the middle of their meals. It was the funniest, most down-to-earth ending to our first day in the Mara, a reminder that even the giants of the savannah have their simple, everyday moments.

Lesson of the day: everybody’s got to go.
Lesson of the day: everybody’s got to go.

As the sun began to dip, we drove past a confusion of wildebeest spread peacefully across the plains, their movements rested and peaceful. That was our last sighting before we returned to our camp.

A peaceful moment with wildebeests on the golden grass.
A peaceful moment with wildebeests on the golden grass.

Moral of the Day: I came to realize that those amazing scenes we watch in wildlife documentaries don’t just happen every hour, they’re the result of months of waiting patiently for the right moment. And today reminded me to be grateful, because every sighting, big or small, is still a gift.


Circle of the Mara Triangle

Another 10-hour game drive awaited us, and our hopes were higher than ever. Today, we were heading deeper into the Greater Mara before crossing into the Mara Triangle, where the legendary Great Migration might just unfold before our eyes. The air itself felt charged with possibility.


It was Amma and Appa’s anniversary, and it felt as if nature had its own gift waiting for them. Arriving early gave us a kind of VIP spot, just a few miles from the Talek Gate, we stumbled upon a pride of twelve majestic lionesses with their playful cubs. What a blessing, to witness such a sight, almost as though it had been meant just for us. I had never before seen a pride so large in the wild. Soon after, the jeeps began to roll in, forming a long line of eager eyes hoping for the same glimpse of these magnificent creatures. This was the Rungai pride. The Rongai Pride is a family of about 8 to 10 lions that lives near the Rongai River in the Maasai Mara. This is their territory, a stretch of open plains where the lionesses raise their cubs and work together to hunt. Life here is never easy, they face dangers from buffalo, rival lions, and the constant struggle to find food, but their strength lies in their bond.


Meet the Rongai Pride, a family of lionesses and cubs who call the open plains of the Mara their home. Fierce, resilient, and bound together.
Meet the Rongai Pride, a family of lionesses and cubs who call the open plains of the Mara their home. Fierce, resilient, and bound together.

Not far from there, another surprise awaited us. A spotted hyena appeared, so close to our jeep, pacing as if deciding which side of the savannah to explore. Eventually, it crossed the road, sniffing the grass and moving restlessly as though searching for something. Suddenly, it picked up speed and dashed toward the tall, dry grasses, only for a cheetah to emerge out of nowhere. Hidden all along, it had been guarding a fresh kill. The hyena had caught the scent, and true to its nature, was on its way to steal the prize. A cheetah, being the shy and solitary hunter it is, would never risk confronting a 70-kilogram hyena.

A cheetah hides with its kill… until a hyena shows up to claim the prize.
A cheetah hides with its kill… until a hyena shows up to claim the prize.

It was the classic Mara story of survival, one’s victory, another’s loss. Alex, grinning ear to ear, summed it up perfectly: “Nature defies all odds.” From our spot, we could take it all in. On one side, the hyena tearing into its stolen meal; on the other, the cheetah quenching its thirst from a ditch, lifting its head just enough to gift us a perfect photograph before disappearing deeper into the savannah. It was our second big sighting of the day, and our hearts were already overflowing.


As if the Mara hadn’t already spoiled us, another cheetah sighting came through on the radio. We arrived to find dozens of jeeps already parked, everyone waiting in hushed anticipation. A young antelope grazed nearby, unaware of the predator’s presence. We held our breath. Surely this would be the chase. The antelope teased closer, almost daring the cheetah to strike. But then, to our shock, the cheetah bolted—not at the antelope but in the opposite direction! Confused and amused, we laughed out loud. Wildlife doesn’t follow scripts. The real magic came when the cheetah casually crossed right in front of our jeep, no more than five inches away. That single moment, when its sleek body brushed past, was worth every second of waiting.

The majestic cheetah surveying the open savannah.
The majestic cheetah surveying the open savannah.

The morning wasn’t done with us yet. Our pride only inflated more when we got to see the Balloon pride, another pride of lionesses. There were 4 of them separated away two each lazing around. It was a beauty to get up, close and personal. Not every pride is called the “Balloon Pride,” but this group of lions got its name because tourists and guides often spot them from hot air balloons. Alex told us that the Marsh Pride was the most famous one in Maasai Mara, a historically famous and large lion pride that gained international recognition through the BBC's Big Cat Diary. Known for its significant size (around 26 members) and its home territory within the Musiara Marsh area. That would be a major boost but we were very happy with what we got this far. Scarface was the most famous lion of the Maasai Mara, known for the scar over his eye and his long reign with his brothers, the “Four Musketeers.” He lived to about 13 years, which is very old for a wild lion, and became a legend of the Mara. Guides often say he once ruled the plains and even killed hundreds of hyenas, though the numbers are likely exaggerated. What’s true is that he was a powerful and fearless lion, remembered as a symbol of strength and survival in the wild.


Lionesses of the Balloon Pride, the strength, grace, and the heart of the pride.
Lionesses of the Balloon Pride, the strength, grace, and the heart of the pride.

Today Alex was determined to give us fabulous sightings. Yesterday Appa had requested for a sighting of a herd of elephants family. We weren’t that lucky to spot one close by yesterday but today our luck had changed for the good. Alex drove us to a part of the plain where a dozen elephants with their young calves kept grazing quietly. We were just the third jeep that was in the vicinity, means we were one of the lucky ones to witness this elephant sighting. It was a great sight to watch them pass our jeep and drink water from a ditch. It was exactly the sighting that appa had wished for. His day was made.!

A family of elephants gracefully walks through the vast, sunlit savannah.
A family of elephants gracefully walks through the vast, sunlit savannah.

Not long after, a flash of black and red caught our eye, a Southern Ground Hornbill. Large, striking, and unusual, it strutted across the grass with its glossy feathers and vivid red throat patch, a reminder of the Mara’s rich birdlife.

A ground hornbill stands alone, showcasing its striking black plumage and vibrant red facial markings.
A ground hornbill stands alone, showcasing its striking black plumage and vibrant red facial markings.

By afternoon, we reached the edge of the Mara River where Alex had arranged a short ranger walk. It sounded exciting at first, walking the banks where hippos and crocodiles ruled. Our ranger Jacob, however, greeted us by reminding us to tip him at the end. That in itself made us chuckle. The walk lasted only 15 minutes, giving us glimpses of bloated crocodiles, lazing hippos, and the sad sight of wildebeest carcasses from failed crossings. It felt more like a marketing gimmick than an adventure, but it was still an experience to tuck away.


Our “ranger walk” by the Mara River,  brief, a bit staged, but still gave us a glimpse of the wild side of the crossing.
Our “ranger walk” by the Mara River, brief, a bit staged, but still gave us a glimpse of the wild side of the crossing.

A crocodile rests near the Mara River, blending into the earthy tones of the riverbank.
A crocodile rests near the Mara River, blending into the earthy tones of the riverbank.

We then entered the Mara triangle officially after a washroom break and issuing our tickets. The tickets to the Mara triangle were more expensive than the greater Mara reserve. The Greater Maasai Mara Reserve is managed by local county councils (Narok County). Revenue goes to the county government. The Mara Triangle is managed by a non-profit, the Mara Conservancy, through a public-private partnership. They reinvest much of the revenue into conservation, anti-poaching units, staff training, and maintaining the park.


We parked our car near the river, the main crossing for the wildebeest and zebra in the hope to watch the Great Migration. The Great Migration is the biggest wildlife show on Earth. Every year, more than a million wildebeest and about 600,000 zebras travel together from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. They follow the rains, always in search of fresh grass and water.

A wildebeest struggles to find secure footing as it crosses a turbulent river.
A wildebeest struggles to find secure footing as it crosses a turbulent river.

One of the most dramatic moments comes at the Mara River. The herds gather nervously at the banks, waiting for the first brave one to leap. Then, all at once, they plunge into the water, hooves splashing, bodies pushing forward in a desperate rush. Crocodiles lie in wait, and not all make it across, but this is the price of survival. This journey is not just about moving across the plains, it shapes the entire savannah. Predators trail behind, the grasslands are renewed, and life keeps flowing in its endless cycle. To witness it is to see nature at its rawest and most powerful.


While we waited for any action to happen, we decided to eat our packed picnic lunches. A hearty meal of protein, good carbs and fat kept us fueled up for the remainder of the day. A vegetable loaded egg sandwich, aloo parathas, yogurt, vegetable samosas, bananas and apples kept us all so full. A Kori bustard flew past us and settled on a branch of a tree. With the only action being two hippos in love mating, and the remaining hippos making aggressive movements in the river, we didn’t see much movement. Instead we saw a huge herd of wildebeest and zebras in the distance and wondered what were they upto.

Zebras and wildebeest grazing side by side. The calm before the chaos of the Great Migration.
Zebras and wildebeest grazing side by side. The calm before the chaos of the Great Migration.

At 3 pm we decided to move forward and catch these wildebeest unwarned. So we decided to explore the triangle more. Not long before, we watched a warthog dash by the road in front of us and what we saw ahead were a confusion of wildebeest run by thumping the ground, making grunting sound noises, in a single file onto the other side. The speed at which they ran, approximately 2000 of them and suddenly stopping on the other side to eat quietly was so unexplainable! It was such a great sight which was followed by the zebras migrating onto the other side.

The Mara’s heartbeat, wildebeest thundering across the plains
The Mara’s heartbeat, wildebeest thundering across the plains

By 4 p.m., time was no longer on our side. The plains stretched endlessly, but most animals seemed to have melted into the landscape. A lone white-backed vulture perched on a bare tree, surveying the emptiness below. Further along, near a deep ditch, a massive rock held a striking sight, a Southern Ground Hornbill, its glossy black feathers gleaming and its bright red throat patch glowing in the fading light.


Alex reminded us that we had to be out of the park by 6 p.m., or risk a heavy fine from the rangers. But just as we were heading toward the gate, he veered off to give us one last thrill. A lioness was crouched low, seemingly preparing for a hunt. A zebra stood not too far away, and for a few breathless moments, we thought we’d witness a chase. But instead of attacking, she paused, climbed onto a rock, and let out a series of calls, perhaps signaling her pride, perhaps waiting for backup. We’ll never know.


Crouched, ready, and waiting…
Crouched, ready, and waiting…

We pushed forward, now only twenty minutes from the exit, when Alex made yet another detour. A crowd of jeeps had gathered, and with good reason, a leopard had been spotted! True to its elusive nature, it disappeared into hiding before we could catch more than a glimpse. We missed our chance, but Alex’s effort wasn’t lost on us. It was a reminder that in the wild, nothing is promised. These animals don’t perform for us. Every sighting, whether it’s a lion in the grass, elephants at a watering hole, or a cheetah stretching in the sun, is a gift, a fleeting moment of grace to be grateful for.


As we drove on, a tower of giraffes strolled gracefully across the plains, a baby in tow that melted our hearts. The sky was awash in hues of orange and pink, and in that soft glow, a lone elephant looked almost majestic, bathed in the light of the setting sun. A grey-headed kingfisher landed nearby, while African fish eagles swooped overhead. Did I mention that the Maasai Mara is a bird-lover’s paradise? With over 470 recorded species, from mighty raptors to tiny sunbirds and bee-eaters, it’s as rich in wings as it is in paws.

Golden hour in the Mara, giraffes with a baby in tow
Golden hour in the Mara, giraffes with a baby in tow

Just minutes from the gate, one final raw scene unfolded, a hyena tearing into a Thomson’s gazelle, likely the remains of a big cat’s hunt. Brutal, yet fascinating, it was the kind of sight you only witness in the wild. True to its scavenger nature, the hyena had claimed the carcass for itself. It was hard to watch as it ripped open the gazelle, but that’s the animal kingdom’s eternal law, survival of the fittest!

A hyena feasts on the remains of a recent kill .
A hyena feasts on the remains of a recent kill .

Moral of the Day: Day 1 left us a little underwhelmed, not because the Maasai Mara disappointed us (far from it), but because as tourists we can’t help being greedy. We always want more… more sightings, more action, more drama straight out of a documentary. So yes, call us desperate if you like, but that’s just the truth, we’re hopelessly in love with the wild and always hungry for the next magical moment.

But Day 2 delivered, and how! From start to finish, it felt like the savannah decided to open up her secrets just for us - big cats, rare birds, unexpected encounters, and those quiet in-between moments that stitched it all together. If Day 1 was a gentle reminder to be patient, Day 2 was nature’s way of saying, “Alright, here you go, this is what you came for.”


Rhythm of the Savannah

Our day began at 5:30 a.m., early enough to catch the gates opening. With only half a day left in the Mara, we wanted to make every moment count. As we drove in, a massive rainbow stretched across the sky. Alex smiled and shared a local belief: when it’s sunny on one side of the Mara and overcast on the other, it means a hyena is giving birth.


Not long after, we spotted a pack of hyenas in the distance. These were likely the same creatures whose eerie calls had echoed through the night, keeping us awake with their unsettling cries. A spotted hyena suddenly crossed right in front of our jeep. It walked with that unmistakable slouched gait, completely unbothered by our presence, as though it owned the road. The moment was both eerie and exciting, we were so close!

A hyena cautiously crosses a dirt road in front of a safari vehicle on a wildlife excursion in the African savanna.
A hyena cautiously crosses a dirt road in front of a safari vehicle on a wildlife excursion in the African savanna.

Alex joked about the Safari Macdonalds, a term coined for the impalas as they had a shape like M imprinted on their buttocks. We saw a couple of them. A few miles away from the gate, Alex received information about a honeymooner lion and lioness basking in the early morning sun. The Figgy Pride, dominant near the Talek entrance since early 2022, was first led by two brothers, Olope with a black mane and Olbarikoi with a ginger mane, alongside four lionesses. When we saw them, one male was sleeping while another teased a female as the pair prepared to mate, a common display of bonding and dominance in lions. Known for their resilience after losing Olope in a clash with rivals, the pride today remains centered around their territory near Talek, with the lionesses and their cubs forming the core of the group.


A lion and a lioness share an intimate moment in the savannah - the honeymooners in the wild.
A lion and a lioness share an intimate moment in the savannah - the honeymooners in the wild.

The approach road was back breaking. Several massive jumps in the air, it was proper off-roading. A double experience ! We were in search of the elusive leopard we missed yesterday and that’s where Alex was taking us to. It was hiding in the trenches of greater Mara. We got there, approximately 10 jeeps surrounding the trenches but none getting a sight of the camouflaged cat. Then suddenly there was movement and I fixed my camera where all other people kept watching and then like a majestic beast the most elusive of all cats the leopard made its royal entry. It walked along the trench periphery and then disappeared again. A sudden run towards the birds, and then, as quickly as it came, it melted back into the wild. We waited in place for twenty minutes, eyes scanning every rustle and shadow, but it never returned. That’s the beauty of wildlife, moments of magic that come unannounced, vanish without warning, and leave you with a quiet reminder that nature always moves to its own rhythm.

A rare sighting and not so clear picture of the elusive leopard prowling through the grasslands near a safari vehicle.
A rare sighting and not so clear picture of the elusive leopard prowling through the grasslands near a safari vehicle.

It was already 10:20 AM. Today the Greater Mara savanna looked dry today, filled in yellow grass, while the weather looked overcast. Yesterday, it was very windy during the day and it was plentiful green in Mara Triangle.


On the way to the Mara River crossing, we spotted a red headed vulture or Nubian. The Nubian vulture, also called the Lappet-faced vulture, is Africa’s largest vulture and is easy to recognize by its red head and massive size. Its strong, scissor-like beak can cut through the tough skin, tendons, and even bones of dead animals, something smaller vultures cannot do. I found that to be particularly interesting!

A vulture stands watchfully beside a wildebeest carcass
A royal sighting of a vulture standing watchfully beside a wildebeest carcass

Today, the day was peaking with excitement with every minute. We drove to the river to see if any migration was happening. We saw a herd of wildebeest slowing and steadily move towards the river. And then we noticed them pick up speed. I had my video camera ready, so ready to shoot the wildebeest make the migration. Suddenly out of nowhere, a lioness charged at the herd and in that flipping minute there was no video, just visual magic that happened. We caught it all with our eyes. The lioness missed catching the wildebeest. But that attempt at a kill was so special. I didn’t know what I was more pissed about, the migration not happening by a sheer ten seconds or the video camera getting jacked the moment the attempt to kill was happening. Alex reminded me some things are better seen with the eyes. We trailed the lioness for a while but since she was in the Mara Triangle, we could only tail her for a while.

Ten seconds away from a migration, and instead we witnessed a hunt. No film, just the kind of raw moment you only ever carry in your memory.
Ten seconds away from a migration, and instead we witnessed a hunt. No film, just the kind of raw moment you only ever carry in your memory.

And then, just like that, the magic found us. Alex slowed the jeep near a thick bush where another vehicle sat in complete silence. At first, we couldn’t see anything, until we noticed two lionesses, so still they almost melted into the leaves. The other jeep slowly reversed, giving us a better angle. And that’s when it happened. Out waddled three tiny cubs, no more than a week old, tumbling out of the bushes straight into their mother’s side. Honestly, wildlife is all about luck and timing, you can drive for hours and see nothing, and then in a single instant, nature gifts you something unforgettable. For us, this was that moment. Out of everything we saw in those three days, the sighting of the Ashnil Pride was the one we’ll carry with us forever.


A week old, three playful lion cubs gather under the shade of a leafy tree
A week old, three playful lion cubs gather under the shade of a leafy tree

And then a tower of giraffes making that statement walk across our path, just we were on our way out of the park. And next up a troop of Topis giving us the much needed footage of Atleast 100 of them together. Next up a bachelor herd of impalas and then a mature male impala.


Other Safari Options

Overlanders are big safari trucks that carry about 28–30 people on long journeys across Africa, sometimes all the way from Kenya to Johannesburg. They come fully equipped with tents, camping gear, fridges, and cooking essentials, so it feels like a little moving village. Travelers camp together, cook as a group, and enjoy safaris along the way, an adventurous and budget-friendly way to see Africa.

Safari-goers enjoy a close encounter with a giraffe in an overland, capturing the moment as they feed it from their vehicle.
Safari-goers enjoy a close encounter with a giraffe in an overland, capturing the moment as they feed it from their vehicle.

Hot Air Balloon Rides are one of the highlights of the Maasai Mara experience. Most operators pick up guests from their lodges or camps around 4:30 to 5:00 am and drive them to the launch site. After a quick safety briefing and watching the balloons being inflated, you lift off just before sunrise. This way, you float gently over the savannah as the sun rises, watching the wilderness come alive at the break of dawn.

A colourful hot air balloon floats over a stunning savanna, where zebras are chilling and munching on grass
A colourful hot air balloon floats over a stunning savanna, where zebras are chilling and munching on grass

After the flight, most operators treat you to a full champagne bush breakfast right in the middle of the savannah, an experience in itself, with a table laid out under the acacia trees as giraffes or zebras wander nearby. The entire adventure, from pick-up to drop-off, usually takes about 4 to 5 hours, with the flight itself lasting around 1 hour. Prices are on the higher side, averaging between USD 450 and 550 per person, but many say the memories are worth every cent.


Some of the best-known companies in the Mara are Governors’ Balloon Safaris, Balloon Safaris Ltd, and Skyship Balloons. Each offers a slightly different style: Governors’ is the most established and highly rated, Balloon Safaris Ltd is known for reliability and experienced pilots, while Skyship adds a touch of luxury.



My father-in-law really wanted to try it, but we decided not to. The views and breakfast sounded amazing, but it was expensive, weather dependent, and meant a very early start on top of our long game drives. Maybe next time.


Closing Thoughts

Our first day in the Maasai Mara was slow. Animals we imagined seeing in herds, packs, and prides instead appeared alone, scattered across the plains. Where were the vast numbers of elephants, the lion prides, the dramatic chases, or hyenas snapping at antelopes? We had arrived with visions shaped by BBC and National Geographic documentaries, expecting the wild to unfold like a perfectly timed performance. Instead, our own impatience, fueled by the long journey to Kenya, taught us a humbling lesson: YOU CANNOT CONTROL NATURE.


Even with two full-day game drives of nearly ten hours each, plus a six-hour ride across rough terrain with our older parents and young kids, we found ourselves seconds away from the great migration yet never quite catching it. Day one became a quiet reminder: the Mara is a paradise, but it reveals itself only on its own terms.


Then came days two and three, and suddenly the savannah came alive. Lions in action, elephants moving in vast herds, hyenas on the chase, the full drama of the wild unfolded before our eyes. The spectacle was everything we had hoped for, and yet leaving still felt bittersweet. We wanted more, more days, more hours, more of those moments when a jeep drives away just as something extraordinary happens. Perhaps a leopard emerged from a trench, or a lion and lioness shared a fleeting connection, or the wildebeest migration thundered across the river. We will never know.


And that is what makes the Maasai Mara unforgettable. It doesn’t give you everything at once. It leaves you longing, chasing what you missed, and treasuring what you did see, a place where every sighting feels like a gift, and every absence makes you yearn to return.


Meet Alex, our incredible guide who made every sighting and every moment in the Mara extra special.
Meet Alex, our incredible guide who made every sighting and every moment in the Mara extra special.

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2 Comments

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Guest
Sep 12
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Absolutely amazing. I felt like i was there with you :)

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Guest
Sep 11
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Felt like I saw it all !!! Amazing Amy !

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Exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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Looking for unique travel experiences? Look no further than The Morning Brew. Hi, I am Amy, exploring the world one sip at a time. ☕✈️ My blog is dedicated to providing families with the most exciting, fun, and authentic travel experiences. The Morning Brew is my travel journey of travel escapades to gorgeous places, meeting like-minded people, exploring different culinary treats and the experience of travelling with kids. I invite you to explore my content and reach out and engage—I’m happy to hear from you, as well. Subscribe to our blog for more updates and travel inspiration. Follow Amy Sidd's adventures at The Morning Brew for a daily dose of travel inspiration.

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